According to Vocabulary.com the word Grumpy means to be annoyed or irritable, maybe even a little cross. It's a word that has been thrown at me a few times in my reviewing life, generally in conjunction with a low score given or a lightly withering critique. I remember after a tasting in Belfast while savouring a pint of the Black Stuff in the majestic confines of The Duke of York I was asked why I was always so grumpy in my reviews? Why could I not be more positive about the Irish whiskey industry because a rising tide lifts all boats?
My answer to that question was that I'd built a reputation for being honest and forthright as I see it. Granted not everyone will agree with my assertions, my tasting notes or my scores because they are after all subjective to each individual. But the minute I give in to the 'everything is awesome' mentality that can pervade whiskey reviewing, especially in the pursuit of free stuff, then whatever credibility I've built with those who read my reviews goes straight out the window.
It's for the aforementioned reason I rarely get anything sent or gifted to me these days which is perfectly fine by me. In truth most of my samples I collected were from trading with other whiskey enthusiasts and reviewers. Reliance on the industry is not really required when the community is so generous.
In fact even today's review is only possible thanks to Marc Fairley who furnished me this sample before I left for the U.S. I haven't really been in Bushmill's/Proximo's good books since my review of Red Bush way back in 2017.
It's pretty much the case now that it's hard to find truly awful whiskies these days, but there are still some out there and I've been unfortunate enough to cross paths with them. That still doesn't mean we are awash with unbelievably great whiskey either. With our finances being strained even more these days and with prices of whiskey creeping up ever more (in some cases rocketing up in price) I believe an honest steer is even more relevant whether you are new to whisky or a seasoned drammer, no one wants to spend money on a bottle that has been hyped only to be disappointed by the contents.
We need to remember that just because something is older and more expensive that it isn't necessarily better! Which brings us nicely into today's grumpathon, I mean review. Since it's release in 2019 the Bushmill's Causeway Collection has produced awe and ire amongst whiskey enthusiasts. First the awe, finally after years and years of moaning we finally got cask strength Bushmill's releases and some of them have been spectacular. The ire....well we are on year five of the Causeway Collection and there have been just too many for collectors and fans to collect. Add in some spicy pricing at times also and well, let's just say, we've had some grumpy consumers.
One of the spicier priced releases was last years 1999 New American Oak single malt release which was retailing for roughly £445/€520/$600. It spent a full 23 years maturing in virgin oak casks after being filled on 14th September 1999. Bottled at 50.1% abv and non chill filtered but there is no mention as to whether it's natural colour or not but let's assume if the dreaded e150 has been used it was minimal. There was no outturn figure given either.
Now £445 is pretty price in anyone's book and for me once your whiskey hits this kind of mark up then it has to work a little harder to achieve a high score. People may argue that pricing is irrelevant and it should only come down to the actual liquid but pricing affects nearly every purchasing decision we make in life and so I feel it's very relevant to the overall scoring of a whiskey.
Will I be Mayor of Grumpton once more after this dram?
Let's Taste!
Nose: Coconut macaroons, vanilla pods, milk chocolate and toffee. Toasted oak, cherry menthol, worn leather, stewed apples studded with cloves.
Palate: Surprisingly thin on the palate. Those coconut macaroons are found again, milk chocolate, cinnamon and clove, toffee apples and then quite a lot of oak.
Finish: Sadly a little short with coconut shavings, stewed apples, baking spice and oak.
Score: 5 out of 10
Overall: This is sadly decidedly average in my opinion. I know many people who thought it was a standout of the 2024 Causeway Collection releases but it just doesn't tickle my fancy. Certainly if I'd dropped £445 on a bottle I'd be more than a lttle disappointed in my purchase.
This feels a little like a bourbon ‘lite’. Although it has a really enticing nose, like many bourbons do, the palate just feels a little flat and there is really very little flavour development and I feel that many of the flavours are available with a good bourbon like Eagle Rare which is decidedly cheaper. I feel like the spirit of Bushmills is just not robust enough to handle a full virgin oak maturation, especially not a 23 year virgin oak maturation.
For the money this is not a whiskey I’d recommend readily. £445 would buy you a pretty healthy shelf full of good quality whiskies so I'd implore you to do that instead.
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