The Bourbon Review: Makers Mark Cask Strength & Wolcott Straight Bourbon
Well we continue our journey through Vanillatown with two more bourbons, something you'll definitely being seeing more of on here due to its proliferation in my new alcohol stores of convenience and not necessarily choice......Fairleys, can you open a Florida branch please? I'm not asking for sympathy, this is after all the result of a calculated life choice.
That doesn't mean I can't reminisce fondly of chilly winter strolls to Fairleys to pick up my latest allocation of Springbanks, pints and abuse (normally from the owner John) at Bittle's Bar in Belfast or rummaging around the dunnage warehouses at Echlinville.......a long way away from chasing iguanas around in Florida.
In an attempt to numb my pain I've been imbibing America's finest borebons so you don't have too! That's how self sacrificing I am.....thank me later.
I know that what's in a whisk(e)y bottle should really be our only consideration but no one can argue that we don't buy with our eyes. Back in Ireland certain brands were never on my radar solely from how they looked. I mean if you aren't bothered even a little by presentation why would I think you care about your liquid.....Grace O'Malley I'm looking at you.
Anyway from the moment I came across Makers Mark I was really taken by their bottle design and especially the waxed dipped bottle neck. I don't know why but that wax dipping just seemed like a length they didn't need to go too, but did....just elevating the product a little more. I suppose that's why I love Killowen doing this too.
Maker's is another relatively young distillery from my Irish eyes having been founded in 1953 by T.William Samuels Sr who purchased Burks' Distillery in Loretto, Kentucky for the princely sum of $35,000. Production began in 1954 with the first run being bottled in 1958 which included the brands famous dipped red wax seal which is protected under US trademark.
The cask strength version of Maker's didn't come around until 2014 when it was initially released as a distillery gift shop expression only before being released globally in 2016. The cask strength is released in batches with the proof fluctuating between 54%/108 proof and 57%/114 proof.
Maker's Mark have a slightly unusual mash bill as they use no rye. Instead they use red winter wheat. the mash bill they use is 70% corn, 16% red winter wheat and 14% malted barley.
I bought batch 23-01 at Total Wines in Plantation for $43 which was 55%/110 proof and as with all bourbons it's natural colour and it's just screen filtered before bottling.
Next up we have a Total Wine own brand, Wolcott which is distilled at Barton Distillery. Barton's more famous brands are 1792, Thomas S Moore & Very Old Barton. But they also distilled for Costco's Kirkland range and obviously Total Wine. I'm not sure if they take Bartons own mash bill and bottle it as their own or that Total Wine have their own bespoke mash bill.
As a straight bourbon it's aged for at least 2 years but they also offer a Bottled in Bond version (at least 4 years old) for $39.99 and a Rickhouse Reserve bottled at 60%/120 proof for $42.99.
The straight bourbon expression cost me $29.99 and is bottled at 45% abv/90 proof.
Let's taste.
Nose: What I notice immediately is how well integrated the alcohol is, absolutely no stinging nostrils here. Then we are greeted with a quite lovely nose - marshmallow, caramel sauce, vanilla cream and cream soda. A herbal element is here too, eucalyptus, fresh basil, sage and cinnamon boiled sweets. Well charred oak, glacé cherries and a touch of engine oil. Water brings out freshly laundered linen, damp pine forests and cherry cola.
Palate: Like the nose the palate presents really well integrated alcohol which is great considering the proof. Butterscotch sundaes, burnt marshmallow, cherry ice cream, cola cubes and spicy oak. It quickly moves to a herbal aspect with spearmint, eucalyptus, cinnamon and clove rock sweets. Water makes things a little oakier and spicier, more of a pepper heat now. I prefer it at full strength.
Finish: The finish is a little short truth be told but your left with Big Red gum, butterscotch, oak tannins and cinnamon sticks.
Score: 7 out of 10
Wolcott Kentucky Straight Bourbon 45% abv (distilled by Barton) series #0074
Nose: A very sweet nose. Oak, vanilla, pear drops, maraschino cherry and brown sugar. Some tinned pineapple too. Mild baking spice notes as well as some peanut butter.
Palate: Very approachable, easy drinking. A medium mouthfeel. Caramel, vanilla, toasted oak. Some clove, cinnamon and white pepper.
Finish: Pretty short with brown sugar sweetness and mild oak and baking spices.
Score: 4 out of 10
Overall:
For the money the Maker’s Mark is an absolute steal, especially if you are paying US prices. I’m currently 1/3 of the way through the bottle and I’ve enjoyed every sip, not something I say often about bourbons. I’d certainly pay the extra over regular Maker’s to make this an affordable daily sipper, especially as you have extra abv to play with so you can play about with adding water to really adjust to your palate. This in theory should make the bottle last longer or go further but I’d wager this will be consumed just as fast as a bottle of regular Maker’s.
The Wolcott is simple, straightforward and an easy sipper. For $30 this is an okay dram but there are much better value propositions available. In a competitive bourbon market this one struggles to stand out from the crowd.
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