Premiumisation. That's been Diageo's buzzword over the last number of years. In essence, how can we extract yet more cash from gullible customers whilst not necessarily improving on their experience.
Mortlach's rebrand was one of the noticeable examples of this ideology in effect and let's be honest, it wasn't a roaring success unless of course you were a clickbait chasing influencer who sold your soul to get freebies and invites to the next Diageo soiree. Excessively priced and underwhelming....welcome to the new world of Diageo.
Mortlach wasn't alone though. Caol Ila, Talisker, Oban all saw pretty crazy price increases. The came the Lagavulin 16. When I last reviewed Lagavulin in 2019 I referenced that I'd paid £47 for the 16 year old, £3 cheaper than the newly released 8 year old.
Fast forward to the pandemic era and the Lagavulin prices went haywire. At one point Laga 16 was at least £100 a bottle. At this point Laga 16 became irrelevant to many whisky enthusiasts as Diageo priced gouged away at the goose they thought would never stop laying golden eggs. Alas it did.
Interestingly on a quick search of 'The Whisky Exchange' (other alcohol sites are available) both the 8 year old and 16 year old are available for the same price....£64.50. At that price I'd still go for the 16 every day and it's good to see it's price has become somewhat relevant again.
The Special Releases though are another thing entirely. I'd kinda love to know who thinks these prices up and how they go about it. It seems akin to just pulling figures out of their bottom. Recently I bought the 2024 Talisker Special Release on the Bezos marketplace for £45.....a reduction of over £55 from original RRP. That is not a unique experience with the market seemingly awash with Diageo Special Releases due to their frankly absurd asking prices. Even here in Florida that Talisker 2024 Special release is still sitting with an asking price of $115.....funnily enough it's always readily avaiable.
Getting back to Lagavulin. I was first introduced to the 12 year old Special Release way back in 2010 when it was readily available for around £50-£55. It was mind blowing for me at the time, especially as peated whiskies were only just growing on me, but the Laga 12 was a next level dram that helped convert me to the wonders of sweet Islay peat. Suffice to say the prices have peaked somewhat, so is it still worth it?
Let's taste!
Lagavulin 12 year old 2020 Special Release 56.4% abv £123
Refill American oak casks (middle of bottle, R Halford)
Nose: A big wave of brine, olive oil and salted lemons hit first. It’s dirty but not overly peaty. Pear drops, tar, green peppercorns and dried hay. Seaweed. A lager like hoppy note too as well as sweet malt. Water brings out garden mint, almonds and more smokiness.
Palate: Surprisingly sweet! Icing sugar dusted over fresh pears and lychees. Earthy peat and iodine, lemon peel and malt. Time brings brine and anchovies, white pepper, chilli heat and some oak. Water highlights marzipan, orange oil and a little more peppery heat.
Finish: Medium in length with a warming spice heat, salted lemons and a drying ashiness.
Score: 7 out of 10
Overall: A very tasty drop that was better without water for my palate. Classic Islay vibes and a reason why the 12 year old cask strength Laga’s are held in such high esteem, if only they weren’t so damn expensive these days.
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