James Eadie’s 1927 Project
This exploration culminated in the release of ‘The Distillation of Whisky: Notes and Observations on its Historical and Practical Aspects, 1927-1931.’ While the title may not spark immediate excitement, it underscores the book's focus on historical significance and practical insights. Released just over a year ago at £75 via Royal Mile Whiskies - it has captivated the imaginations of many whisky aficionados and distillers alike.
Those daring enough to buy the book, risking the ire of their postman, were rewarded with exclusive access to the first batch of distillates crafted by the six distilleries eager to apply the book's insights. I count myself among those fortunate few, so this isn’t just a promotional piece or a freebie from someone entrenched in the industry. Instead, it springs from the mind of a whisky lover, driven by a genuine passion for the rich history of whisky, offering a unique perspective.
James Eadie has launched an informative series of YouTube videos, free from the usual shelf bottle backdrop, featuring informal discussions with the distillers themselves. Accompanied by the incredibly knowledgeable Alan Winchester, and also Dave Broom as compere. These videos are a treasure trove of insights. They delve into the practical aspects of how the distillers have applied concepts from the book, attempting to reverse engineer these ideas into their everyday distilling practices. It's definitely worth your time to watch and expand your understanding.
The videos vividly illustrate the delicate art of distilling and the flow of knowledge, highlighting that time doesn’t stand still as John Campbell has moved on from Lochlea, while Euan has ventured away from Dornoch to embrace a new role in Speyside. Individuals move and the sharing of knowledge continues, as it always has done.
It's important to emphasise that the method of distillation was completely in the hands of the individual teams. There were no strict directives like ‘you have to do this’ or ‘please concentrate on this part.’ Instead, it resembled a cooking show where participants were presented with a larder of ingredients and encouraged to craft their own unique dishes. Continuing with this analogy, we also have the pleasure of sampling and savouring the fruits of their labour, much like in a culinary showcase.
Before we dive into the individual distillates, I wanted to touch on a few key points. First up is the price tag of £115, which has certainly caught the attention of many whisky enthusiasts. I completely understand the concerns surrounding this, especially in these challenging times. Distilleries have had to make sacrifices, dedicating some of their production time - though some do set aside weeks each year for experimental batches – and the cost of sourcing and purchasing new raw materials. James Eadie has invested in this project, and Royal Mile Whiskies has their own costs to consider as well. It’s reasonable that everyone involved receives some form of compensation for their efforts.
The liquid is distributed across seven 10cl bottles, which amounts to a full-sized release of whisky that is slightly younger than many of the Scotches currently available. While a smaller 5cl size could have been a good option, it also opens the door for sharing with friends. I won’t even suggest the outlandish idea of splitting a bottle among 40 people for an overpriced whisky release, but sharing with just one or two friends could enhance both the experience and the cost-effectiveness.
This is not a conclusive experiment, nor is it intended to be. Rather, it serves to deepen our understanding and appreciation of the human endeavour that went into crafting quality distillates in the 1920s and earlier. The landscape has shifted dramatically. Equipment has advanced, becoming more efficient and rooted in chemistry, yet the artistry of the distiller should always remain central to the distillation process. Ultimately, we’re giving back control to the distiller.This experiment perhaps underscores that notion, highlighting the dedication of the distillery team in supporting their distiller's vision.
On another note, things beyond the scope of the experiment have changed, such as the quality of water has arguablydeteriorated or become more polluted, and the impacts of global warming - yes, it is a reality - have altered our environment, which must be considered when evaluating the authenticity of results that claim to reflect the 1920s. While they may not be entirely true to that era, the distillatesrepresent the closest approximation we can achieve without embarking on an outrageously costly experiment. Personally, I find whisky to be pricey enough without adding that expense into the mix.
When it comes to evaluating these distillates, I won't be assigning any scores. I strongly feel that scoring them - like giving ratings of 88, 90, or higher - detracts from the essence of maturation. After all, these distillates are merely a precursor to whisky, and we need to allow time for that organic development to unfold. Instead of a numerical evaluation, I'll share my insights and reflections on the matter.These were all tasted over the course of 5 days, using the same glass at roughly the same time of day, in the same room and chair.
The box depicted includes a pamphlet detailing the various distilleries and their contributions. It presents itself well, striking a balance without the extravagant flair typical of Macallan packaging; the intention is for the contents to be explored and savoured rather than showcased or entered into a whisky competition. Each distillery shares its inspiration drawn from the book and its unique approach. The entries begin with some technical specifications, which I will mirror for each distillate.
The introduction is complete; now it's time to dive into the main attraction.
Ardnamurchan Distillery
Barley: ChevallierYeast: Nottingham and Windsor ale yeasts
Original gravity: 1055Final gravity: 999
Fermentation time: 68 hoursCut points: spirit collected between 66% and 75% alcohol
Filling strength: 63.4%
On the nose: oily, creamy with vanilla and a light cheese. Less fruity than other modern distillates, cornflakes, cereal notes and cream soda. Herbaceous, liquorice and dried firewood.
In the mouth: dense with a weighty tone, more of the cereals and a twist of lime. Some freshness, minerals linger like flints and pebbles with green apples.
My thoughts
Curiously, this doesn't stray far from the contemporary distillate styles we're familiar with. I would have relished the chance to compare it to Ardnamurchan's regular distillate. The richness and viscosity suggest potential, giving it a sense of fullness, for lack of a better term. The spirit's character is more subdued, lacking the usual raw edge of the alcohol. The journey ahead promises to be delightful.
Dornoch Distillery
Barley: floor malted organic Plumage ArcherYeast:aged spent Brewer’s yeast
Original gravity: 1030-1037Final gravity: 998-999
Fermentation time: combination of wort fermented for one week (168 hours) and 26 days (624 hours), giving an average fermentation of 2 weeks
Cut points: spirit collected between 61.12% and 75.05% alcohol Filling strength: 63.4%
On the nose: I was picking up a burnt or singed notefirewood and herbs involved. Very fresh and inviting, bashed mint leaf and orange gives it a zesty nature. More cereals (or course), sugary and confectionary spring to mind.
In the mouth: interesting, there’s a sappy almost grape-like aspect to this, much like a young green wine or Vino Verde. Wood spice in some ways, or an element of black spices. Chocolate, dried tarragon, tablet and more minerals. Big flavours and presence.
My thoughts
Once again, this distillate is completely enjoyable. It lacks the lively spirity character I also mentioned in my summary of the Ardnamurchan. I've had the pleasure of tasting a few variations of the Dornoch distillate, and if my memory serves me right, this one is less focused on fruity notes. It feels more substantial and structured, providing a solid base to build upon.
What truly caught my attention was the contrast after sampling these two initial drams. I then poured myself an everyday drinker; an 11 year old cask strength, specifically a Pulteney from Cadenhead's, and it was quite enlightening. Despite my fondness for Pulteney, I was surprised to discover that the transition from these unique distillates to a more typical release didn’t present a significant leap in flavour or aroma, a decade or so later. It’s definitely worth a try, especially if you have the opportunity to sample the pack.
Holyrood Distillery
Barley: base of heritage malts; organic Plumage Archer and Chevallier, with a small proportion (unstated) of heavily peated Highland malt Yeast: Edinburgh ale yeast
Original gravity: 1067avgFinal gravity: 1010avg
Fermentation time: an average of 114 hours
Cut points: spirit collected between 61.5% and 75.05% alcohol Filling strength: 63.4%
On the nose: banana foam, vanilla, creamy and not overly pungent. Aniseed, star anise with fruit sugars, thyme and chocolate mousse. Also, currants and chocolate digestives.
In the mouth: bursting with fruit, most fruity of the bunch so far and meadow fruits – Speyside in nature. Also, a clutch of dried spices and very accessible as it stands from a mainstream drinking aspect. Not a huge amount of texture which might take me back to those Holyrood stills, has a fleeting grainy-spirity aspect. White grapes, candied lemon peel, bitters, liquorice root – could see this being a great mixer in a cocktail.
My thoughts
At first, I was filled with scepticism about this distillate, particularly given the imposing stills at Holyrood, which seem to emphasize the influence of wood over authentic character. Yet, this opportunity to step outside the usual boundaries might just reveal some delightful surprises.
And surprisingly, it did. I spent an evening exploring this distillate alongside the one from Inchdarnie, and they were entirely distinct from one another. I observed that this one stands out as perhaps the most ‘modern’ of the distillates, showcasing a fruit-forward profile with a hint of naivety. It strikes me as serving as a hybrid that comfortably straddles both worlds in this intriguing experiment.
Inchdarnie Distillery
Barley: Vessel Winter Yeast: Classic Brewhouse ale yeast
Original gravity: 1065Final gravity: 1003
Fermentation time: 60 hours
Cut points: spirit collected between 68% and 74% alcohol Filling strength: 63.4%
On the nose: old and musty, very different to everything before with a dense spirit. I’m also thinking of new ice cream cones, cardboard, bark and newspapers. Blackcurrant shakes things up and book bindings with a touch of leather and cereals.
In the mouth: this a total contrast as the fruits come into play more with a touch of blackcurrant menthol and cough sweet – almost medicinal. Playful sticky texture with more gently roasted black spices and dried fruits.
My thoughts
A notably denser spirit, likely influenced by the brief fermentation period and the specific methods employed at the distillery, and possibly the choice of yeast. It stands out as an unexpected contender in the lineup. This whisky is quite approachable, showcasing a more traditional character that sets it apart. It's clear that contemporary whisky consultantswouldn't be pursuing this particular style when working with a new distillery. The mystery lies in how it will evolve or interact with wood, encapsulating the excitement of this entire experiment.
Lochlea Distillery
Barley: Lochlea farm Laureate barley (2022 harvest) Yeast: Old English ale yeast
Original gravity: 1050-1052Final gravity: 998
Fermentation time: 90-168 hours
Cut points: spirit cut after 25 minutes at 67% alcohol Filling strength: 63.4%
On the nose: floral, crisp and artificial mint cleanliness. Cold marble, mineral-like and reminiscent of those dried mint tablets. Singed newspaper, vanilla and cotton.
In the mouth: sweet with berries and crisp green apples. Soda water, a touch of metallic with my notes suggesting new tin. Marzipan and blackberries.
My thoughts
A different perspective reveals a spirit that feels somewhat limited when placed alongside its peers, yet it boasts a contemporary flair that enhances its approachability and lightness. It's refreshing to witness the use of locally sourced barley, though I wish there were more insights into the fermentation durations and precise ingredient ratios. Given the 168-hour timeframe, I anticipated a richer character, which implies that much of the spirit may originate from a shorter fermentation process. Nevertheless, this is likely the finest Lochlea I've experienced so far, and considering it hasn't yet interacted with wood or undergone ageing, the future looks promising.
Unnamed Distillery (it’s Daftmill)
Barley: Daftmill farm floor malted Golden Promise barley Yeast: Brewer’s yeast from local breweries and distiller’s yeast
Original gravity: 1050Final gravity: 997-999
Fermentation time: 96-120 hours
Cut points: 73-75% alcohol Filling strength: 63.4%
On the nose: old porcelain plates, raisins and a musty and earthiness I wasn’t expect. Prunes, red grapes and a pleasant nuttiness. Cherries, old withered tobacco and green peppers.
In the mouth: lovely, with an enjoyable texture. Wet copper sheets, figs, blackcurrants with nutmeg and a touch of cinnamon. Muggy in places, caramel and brown sugar, rich oiliness as well.
My thoughts
Isn’t this exactly what Waterford envisioned? A farmer cultivating and crafting his own whisky? It’s an exhilarating aspect of the project, showcasing a journey that truly travels from field to distillery and a lost time. Francis earned numerous accolades for his Golden Promise barley in the past, making this revival of a nearly forgotten, heritage-style grain a delightful addition. The barley is abundant, vibrant, and bursting with flavour, with not a blue bottle in sight. I must make my way back to Cupar to check on how this spirit is maturing in the casks – if I’m allowed in. This should be glorious in ex-bourbon casks and refill sherry wood, not first fill.
Project 1927
Blended at birth
Ardnamurchan (16%), Dornoch (2.3%), Holyrood (18.7%), Balgothie aka Inchdarnie (28.2%), Lochlea (28.2%) and Daftmill from Fife (6.7%)
On the nose: more rounded than any of the other offerings, a touch boring in some ways! Pulped fruit which becomes rotting fruit. Boiled sweets, rock candy, dried wood and peppery.
In the mouth: more convoluted, a little all over the place with clashes apparent – this needs wood! Black spices, hemp, dark chocolate, brown sugar and an almost wood bitterness on the end.
My thoughts
Even before diving into the details of this blend, I sensed that the contributions from smaller distilleries would be limited, given their scarcity and the need to prolong this ambitious project. Dornoch’s spirit boasts a bold character and a striking presence, while the more delicate profile of Holyrood would complement a blend beautifully. Together, joining the complete cast, they create an enticing possibility. However, I wish there was more insight into how these proportions were decided, who crafted the blend, or the individuals behind it. There’s a QR code on the last page that might reveal additional details, but as I pen this, it’s not yet accessible online.
This is an enjoyable experience reminiscent of a Lochside distillery's unique blend from its inception. However, my curiosity leans more towards observing the maturation of each individual distillate. While I might not have pursued this on my own, I do value the idea of exploring the flavours they would create together—something we can easily replicate in the cozy setting of our own home.
Overall
I shared my pack with a fellow enthusiast, which not only eased the financial burden but also gave me the chance to heardifferent reactions in the near future. One of the highlights for me was the experience of sitting down and carefully transferring these seven distillates into sample bottles. Instead of the usual method of tasting each one on separate eveningsthat awaited, this approach let me compare them all at once through their aromas. They all originate from similar sources, presenting a profile that is less intense and fruity compared to the contemporary distillates. They are more subtle, approachable, and each has its own unique twist.
There’s an extraordinary level of whisky enthusiasm that comes alive when you sit down with these distillates. Tasting new make spirit isn’t for everyone; it evokes a sense of nostalgia for a time long past. Many may find it challenging to discern the delicate nuances, especially if their taste buds are accustomed to the contemporary scotch scene, where the influence of wood reigns supreme. Yet, from my viewpoint, I found great value in witnessing how the past has inspired current practices. This is merely the starting point; the true test will come when these foundational elements are finally bottled as whisky, allowing us to fully appreciate the lessons history has to offer.
These distillates whisper of the brilliance and eccentricity of whisky pioneers, who left behind scant documentation of their craft - and trust me, I’ve delved deeper into Glen Mhor’stechnical lore than most. Our only option is to draw from their legacy and attempt to recreate it, taking a stepping backwardsin a way that would surely resonate with David Lynch, even if the Log Lady remains elusive.
Certain trade secrets may fade into obscurity, and the natural landscapes have transformed significantly over time. However, with our capacity to cultivate ancient barley strains and a growing willingness to explore diverse yeast varieties, we possess a wealth of resources to craft not just exceptional whisky, but whisky infused with a soul - a quality often overlooked in contemporary offerings. This is whisky that emerges from the collaborative spirit of the distiller and their team, harmoniously working together to create and present something truly unforgettable.
What lies ahead remains a mystery, but isn’t that what makes life so captivating? Time will race past, and before we know it, we’ll have the chance to see if there’s a method to the madness and whether those traditional methods, with all their flaws, were indeed the most effective after all.
WR
Great post, I watched all the videos on YouTube so great to hear what the spirit tastes like.
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