Cadenhead’s Authentic Outturn October 2024



Cadenhead’s Authentic Outturn October 2024

Welcome to the latest edition of Cadenhead’s October 2024 outturn summary, which typically serves as my monthly update on Instagram before diving into the details of each release. I've been sharing these insights for what feels like several years now, and I always look forward to the innovative offerings from the team in Campbeltown. They occupy a distinctive niche in the Scotch Whisky landscape, especially as Gordon & MacPhail have pursued premium releases, cashing in on independent bottling opportunities that will soon stop. Meanwhile, the SMWS has seemingly surrendered its identity to corporate interests since going public, bombarding unsuspecting customers with their vibrant labels and relentless marketing. Once you join, your inbox is inundated with a flood of releases, many of which may not be at their peak. Even the staunchest SMWS supporters have confided in me this year that they buy next to nothing nowadays and their inventory has been mismanaged. 

In contrast, Cadenhead’s has maintained its integrity. Yes, prices have increased, but hasn’t everything except air? They remain dedicated to curating a solid outturn, handpicking a selection of releases each month that deserve further exploration and discussion. Perfection is elusive, and there will inevitably be bumps along the way, given the nature of single cask offerings. Yet, in terms of consistency and value, they continue to be a steadfast presence.

I’m fortunate to receive these monthly packs, which might lead you to expect an avalanche of superlatives like ‘amazing,’ ‘whisky of the year,’ or ‘exceptional.’ However, if you know me, you understand that I tend to be pragmatic and realistic, and you’ll get a sense of that in what follows. I’ll be scoring on a 1-10 scale, with most whiskies landing in the average to good range, which is why I anticipate many will fall between 5 and 6. There’s nothing wrong with these whiskies if the price is right. Even a 4, with its flaws, will have some merit. 

Now, enough rambling I expect for Phil, who I must thank for hosting this. I’m not sure if this will become a regular thing, but it will blend my Instagram posts with some extended thoughts and an exclusive overall summary! Exciting, isn’t it? Perhaps a director’s cut is more fitting, as I do need to trim down to meet the word limit on the ‘gram.

As is tradition, I do these in alphabetical, order…



Cadenhead’s Dalmunach 6 year old review

This should be quite the adventure. I vividly recall the letdown when Chivas decided to bottle its latest distillery. Back then, I would have happily levelled Imperial to create Dalmunach, sadly losing the former distillery with a truly captivating story. In the world of whisky, we love to wax poetic about history when it comes to selling whisky, yet the Scotch Whisky industry seems indifferent to the idea of preserving it.

Is this what they call progress? Fortunately, Dalmunach's whisky has been on the rise, which isn’t always a sure thing - just look at Waterford and Wolfburn for proof. I’m eager to see what’s in store, as some of the Dalmunach offerings are surprisingly impressive for a Chivas distillery.

Bottle info 

Dalmunach 

6yo 

63.3%

Refill PX Hogshead since 2023

£55.00

Nose: a young formation of vanilla, tablet and honey. Raw cereals and a meaty aspect. A splash of water reveals a nuttiness and eggshells. Overall little limited. 

Taste: a lightness here that's refreshing and a pleasing resinous quality. The wood is beginning to settle with the spirit and still youthful in parts. Caramel, tea leaves, tinny with dried tarragon. Water works well and reveals almonds, more oils and bashed copper. That edgy dirtiness you sometimes see in PX casks.

My thoughts

A fun choice, as it leans towards the youthful side and has plenty of potential for growth. The influence of water is advantageous, and what I find appealing about these early offerings from the distillery is the emerging style that’s taking shape. While it still has a distance to cover to reach the heights of what Imperial achieved, the outlook for Dalmunach appears promising, especially with its compatibility with sherry.

Score: 5/10



Cadenhead’s Enigma Lowland 10 year old review

Another whisky mystery that lands in the form of an Enigma. It could be from a Diageo distillery where Cadenhead's is unable to use the name or promote the fact that a cask has made its way to Campbeltown. Alternatively, it could be Auchentoshan, a name that doesn’t typically ignite much passion among whisky aficionados.

The allure of the Enigma series lies in its departure from relying on names and traditional markers. The real question is whether you enjoy it. Priced at £50 and offered at cask strength, this could certainly appeal to a variety of tastes.

However, we must proceed with caution, dear readers, as the Lowland whiskies are not usually known for their vibrancy and boldness - qualities that can hold their own against an Oloroso Hogshead. Given that it has spent only about a year in this lively wood finish, has the Cadenhead's team managed to capture this one just in time?

Bottle info 

Enigma Lowland 

10yo 

54.9%

Oloroso Hogshead since 2023

£50.00

Nose: great colour for those that like that sort of thing however we've got redberries, tomato vine and what I've put down as Bazooka Joe bubble gum. Throw in some old school cola cubes that bring dark fruits and aniseed and it’s a fun thing.

Taste: a sticky texture with a touch of ash and vanilla. Plums, dates and stew-ish. Red apples, a touch of tobacco and dark chocolate with raisins. 

My thoughts

This satisfies both the taste and value criteria. Those who enjoy Glenallachie cask strength, which is so sherried it could easily deceive even the most discerning sherry enthusiasts, should definitely give this a try. There's a lot to savour here, all presented in a straightforward manner that isn’t overly weighty and with an added touch of richness. Mostly due to the active finish, but plucked in time.

Apparently, it is from Ayrshire and due to some debate over whether it was a single malt or tea-spooned, the Enigma label provides the perfect home. No need to showcase the distillery name and it is well made for sure, offering great value. 

Score: 6/10



Cadenhead’s Glenfarclas 22 year old review

It’s fantastic to see one of the Glenfarclas whiskies finally showcased under its own name, rather than shrouded in mystery as an Enigma. That’s the benefit the agreement the team have with the distillery and mutual respect that the ‘brand’ is not tarnished.

As one of the standout offerings in this month’s Authentic Collection, expectations are undoubtedly high for this release, especially given its price point. It likely spent time maturing in a bourbon cask before undergoing a four-year finish in oloroso, which should add a delightful richness to a whisky style that pairs beautifully with sherry casks.

Arriving just in time for the chill of winter and the festive season, this whisky promises to be a comforting escape from the harsh Scottish weather. It’s sure to capture the attention of enthusiasts from one of Speyside’s most respected distilleries.

Bottle info
Glenfarclas
22yo
51.8%
Oloroso Hogshead since 2019
£155.00

Nose: a rich arrival with beeswax, ginger root and honeyed carrots. Maple syrup, fresh thyme, leathery with that old book effect. Oatcakes, walnuts, orange peel and rustic slippers. Fudge, jasmine, stout-ale aspect after time and a liqueur aspect.

Taste: very gentile and armchair in nature. Marmalade, suited and booted, tangy, more ginger and orange. There’s a touch of earth, chocolate raisins and dried fruit. Wholemeal loaf, oatcakes, black tea and scrapings from the bottom of the pan

My thoughts
Quite impressive, though it may not have been the spectacular performance I anticipated. The sherry finish certainly has its charm, but it can only carry the experience to a certain extent. There’s a unique quality that comes with complete maturation, bringing an extra layer of intrigue and depth. Nevertheless, this will undoubtedly be appreciated by many, and justifiably so.

Score: 7/10



Cadenhead’s Kilkerran 12 year old review

The quality of a release like this often seems irrelevant, as it will likely thrive on speculative trends in the future. It always disheartens me to see a collection of bottles in someone’s home, whether as a backdrop for a YouTube channel or in a dedicated whisky room, with most of them still sealed tight.

I’m not referring to just a few bottles, but rather a battalion of soldier-like bottles standing at attention, lacking any real purpose. We sometimes lose sight of the fact that whisky isn’t merely a commodity, a trophy, or an investment. It’s about the folk who crafted it, the region and distillery it hails from, and, at its core, the joy of sharing and savouring it with others.

These days, I’ve been drinking less as I work my way through some long-neglected bottles. If I were to share a picture of my own whisky collection, every single bottle would be open. Gradually, I’m creating space, establishing order, and enjoying the contents with friends. Once I achieve that sense of organisation, I plan to revisit Cadenhead’s in Edinburgh to replenish.

In the meantime, I doubt this Kilkerran will still be available by the time I make my visit. It will be intriguing to see how the recent increases in Scottish alcohol pricing and declining exports will affect the market. For many of us, it’s time to relish what we already have at home.


Bottle info
Kilkerran 
12yo 
56.8%
Bourbon Barrel
£65.00

Nose: quite relaxed but still very Kilkerran. A lovely touch of peat but nothing pronounced. Salinity, black peppercorns, cold steel and struck flint. Spent gunpowder caps and banana skin.

Taste: well rounded, quite fruity in places for a Kilkerran. More minerals, flint and a gentle wisp of smoke. Synthetic chewits, soft peat lingers until the end. Chalky, twist of lime.

My thoughts
Impressive, showcasing a wonderful balance throughout. It feels like a highly accessible offering from the distillery. I’d purchase a bottle, I have a feeling this one will attract a lot of attention, but I’m not really in the mood for the chase these days. However, if you’re up for it, I say the prime target.

Score: 8/10



Cadenhead’s Knockdhu 11 year old review

If you’ve been keeping up with my insights on the @wmcadenheads releases over the last couple of years, you might have noticed that I’m not particularly fond of port casks or the sweeter side of whisky.

Port casks, especially ruby ones, can be rather heavy-handed in their ability to dominate. That said, some of Cadenhead’s finishes have been quite pleasant and haven’t lingered too long on the palate. Still, it often feels like there’s a tendency to include a bit of everything in the outturns, to ensure widespread interest. 

As for Knockdhu, I would really appreciate a robust bourbon cask expression. This charming Speyside distillery possesses an almost Highland-like essence, thanks to its distillation process and the use of worm tubs. It boasts a rustic, cereal-like character that truly stands out. I could assist Cadenhead’s in selecting an excellent cask someday!

Yet, here we are with a lengthy port finish that emphasises the character I’ve mentioned. Few distillates can endure nearly four years in port, so let’s discover how this one has fared...

Bottle info
Knockdhu 
11yo 
53.2%
Ruby Port Hogshead since 2020
£60.00

Nose: fudge, marzipan and almonds. Chocolate, bar nuts, nougat and fruit syrup. A sticky resinous quality with red kola.

Taste: more stickiness and syrup like. Very sweet berries, some rubber and glazed cherries. Tobacco, red peppers. I did try water but it wasn’t beneficial.

My thoughts
This one isn’t quite my cup of tea; it’s overly sweet and has a bit of a rubbery texture. It feels like a Digestif-style dram, inviting you to linger in that sugary sensation before diving into the peat. While it may find its admirers, I think it spent too much time in the port cask for my liking. A modern style of finish for those who prefer the sweeter style of whisky.

Score:  4/10



Cadenhead’s Miltonduff 14 year old review

Lately, I’ve found myself discussing Miltonduff more often than not, or at least it certainly feels that way. This Speyside distillery boasts a strong reputation and enjoys considerable backing from the independent whisky community.

I can confidently say that I’ve never encountered a disappointing Miltonduff. While I’ve come across a few questionable finishes, the core product remains impressively dependable.

Instead of reiterating previous thoughts, I’d underline that Miltonduff is a name that deserves your attention. On those tranquil evenings when I crave a reliable dram paired with some classic vinyl, Miltonduff is always a top contender, right alongside the sounds of Miles or Coltrane. It’s simply quality through and through.

Bottle info
Miltonduff-Glenlivet 
14yo 
54.3%
PX Hogshead since 2020
£70.00

Nose: flying saucers, mulch sweetness d wet wood. Cola cubes, liquorice all sorts, dates and gorse. Cinnamon, almost menthol-like in places and blackberries.

Taste: very pleasant with blackcurrant, raisins and rum-like. Dried fruit, rhubarb, brambles and bark. Some ash and soaked dates.

My thoughts
A remarkable sense of equilibrium shines through, embodying that unmistakeable confidence characteristic of Miltonduff. This selection is perfect for the incoming season, as I often look for a sherried option that strikes the ideal balance of influence and richness. Once opened, this is a crowd pleaser and easily demolished.

Score:  7/10



Cadenhead’s Speyside-Glenlivet 27 year old review

This offering from the often-criticised Speyside distillery has narrowly escaped the brink of obscurity. The team at Cadenhead’s managed to select the cask just in the nick of time.

Had it dipped below 40%, it would have been relegated to the shadows of a vatting or blend and not featuring in the Authentic Collection. Speaking of strength, some whisky aficionados can be quite elitist, insisting that anything under 46% lacks merit. However, in my extensive experience - too lengthy to recount - I’ve discovered that strength isn’t the ultimate determinant many assume it to be.

This cask has patiently matured, allowing the flavours of the distillate and wood to meld beautifully over nearly thirty years, engaging in a delightful interplay of tastes. I’m hopeful for a charming experience that we can all savour, and I’m eager to see how this early release from the distillery’s inaugural decade unfolds today.

Bottle info
Speyside-Glenlivet 
27yo 
40.2%
Bourbon Hogshead
£165.00

Nose: fruit salad chews, peaches and cinnamon. Meadow fruit medley, syrup and fresh cookies. Oat crumbles, faint soap, moral heather and vanilla.

Taste: soft, delicate and very gentle. More meadow fruits, bone China, icing sugar. Victoria sponge with some slight wood bitterness towards the end.

My thoughts
This whisky embodies a gentle spirit. Having reached the pinnacle of its maturity, it carries an air of elegance, though subtle imperfections are beginning to show. While it may not be a lavish dram, its charm lies in the simple pleasures it provides, requiring no elaborate introduction. It’s a pour that invites you to lose yourself in the journey it has undergone.

Score: 7/10



Cadenhead’s Spirit of Yorkshire 6 year old review

This is going to be a tough pitch.

There's no denying that the price of this release is startling and feels out of step with other offerings in this batch.

The issue isn't with Cadenhead’s, who are eager to collaborate with emerging distilleries, but rather with the pricing of new distillery casks. We’ve seen distilleries generally asking for eye-watering prices for an unproven reputation. I understand both perspectives, yet I also recognise the advantages that an independent release can bring to your distillery and brand. Your whisky gets the spotlight and reaches fresh markets. It’s a mutually beneficial situation unless the asking price is too steep, which can diminish that potential.

Considering the reports of declining exports, sales, and investment, it’s the reliable bottlers like Cadenhead’s who provide stability and a channel during challenging times ahead. So, it is beneficial to work with them.

We all face expenses, and while cask prices are beginning to ease, the recent extreme behaviour at Whisky Paris Live has left me questioning whether some truly value the whisky itself or are merely focused on lining their pockets. The atmosphere out there feels alien to me, at least and not something I want to be a part of.

My thanks to @wmcadenheads for the sample pack as we conclude this outturn.

Bottle info 

Spirit of Yorkshire 

6yo 

59.4%

Fino Hogshead

£105.00

Nose: a handful of old copper coins, which is all you need to know! Caramel, milk chocolate, a rich honey and a touch metallic in the background – those coins again. Marzipan, white cap mushroom, fudge, malt vinegar and raisins.

Taste: salted caramel, cinder toffee, resinous and tarte tatin. More raisins, digestives and oatcakes. Also, used tobacco and back to that handful of copper coins once again.

My thoughts

It's unfortunate that the steep price tag will likely deter many from exploring this whisky and the promise of the distillery. Releasing a 6yo at over £100 risks pushing potential enthusiasts away. If it were priced closer to £60, it could garner a much better reception and spark curiosity about your offerings. As it stands, the experience feels less impactful than it could be. There are some bold flavours present - while not overly complex, the overall blend is quite delightful.

Score: 7/10



Overall

Cadenhead’s has delivered one of its strongest offerings in 2024, raising the bar for the upcoming releases this year. In my personal top three, without any particular ranking, I would highlight the Enigma for its exceptional value, the Miltonduff for its luxurious and delightful character, and the Kilkerran, which impresses with its remarkable presence as a single cask. The Yorkshire release would have made it into that elite trio if not for its steep price, underscoring the reality that cost does play a significant role, contrary to what some whisky critics might claim.

I have concerns for the future of numerous new distilleries that seem to believe they can set high prices without a well-established brand or market presence. This might have worked during a thriving market, but reminiscent of the early 1980s downturn, I fear we are heading toward a survival-of-the-fittest scenario in the years ahead. After all, trophy cabinets can only accommodate so many limited editions, and eventually, one must choose between savouring the whisky or moving onto the ‘next big thing’ as interests shift elsewhere.


WR

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