Benromach 2014 Cask Strength Batch 3 Speyside Single Malt Scotch Review

 

Gordon & MacPhail may well be better known for their bottlings as independent bottlers but they always had ambitions to become distillers which very nearly came to fruition in 1950 when John Urquhart made a bid for Strathisla. Subsequently he was thwarted by Seagram’s who paid £1,000 more than he had offered.

Fast forward 43 years to 1993 and the Urquhart’s had their wish granted when they bought the mothballed Benromach distillery in Forres. They didn’t immediately go into production, no they spent 5 years refurbishing the distillery and installing new equipment. The Urquhart’s also wanted to use Benromach to distill the old-school style of Speyside malt and that meant using peat. So all Benromach production is now peated using malt that is peated to 12-14ppm.

The core range features a 10, 15 and 21 year old all bottled at 43% abv/86 proof plus a yearly cask strength. They also have a ‘Contrasts’ range where they get a bit more experimental using organic grains, heavily peated malt, different types of oak and even unpeated malt.

Not content with one distillery, Gordon and MacPhail founded The Cairn distillery, also in Speyside to produce a lighter style of malt compared to Benromach and which will be unpeated.

They also announced in 2023 that they would no longer be filling new casks as an independent bottler from 2024 and that it would deplete it’s existing stocks until they run out. Instead the company wishes to focus on building it’s single malt brands at Benromach and The Cairn.

Benromach 2014 Cask Strength Batch 3 Speyside Single Malt

60.6% abv/121.2 proof NC/NCF 

$70/£52/E59.50

9 years old. Matured in a combination of 1st fill ex-bourbon and ex sherry casks

Nose: There’s a definite funk to this – lactose, beef stock cubes, rancio and dark dried fruit like dates and prunes. There’s a healthy dose of French polish here too. Caramel, licorice and blackcurrants along with peat smoke and blood orange. 

Water brings out sweet black espresso and cough medicine and the smoke becomes more pronounced.

Palate: A bit hot on first sip…that abv makes itself known. It has a great mouthfeel though. Savoury at first – honey glazed ham, clove, cinnamon and even a touch of bone broth. A gentle smokiness gives way to stewed apples & pears in red wine. Oak spice, caramel and nutmeg.

Water heightens the sweet side of the dram. Butterscotch, black licorice and Kendal mint cake.

Finish: Medium in length with wood smoke, spice, caramel and dry fried mushrooms.

Score: 8 out of 10

Overall: Benromach’s core range is undoubtedly of high quality but can seem a little underpowered at the low 43% abv/86 proof. That gripe cannot be made about this dram, this is a savoury monster and frankly stupidly good value for money. 

I’d maybe recommend beginners to explore the 10 and 15 first but I’d certainly recommend that anyone pick up a bottle of this.

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