Thompson Bros. Mystery Malt Series 1 Review

The intriguing Mystery Malt series has finally landed, and I find myself lucky to have a quiet moment to reflect on this release and its overarching idea.

When Simon first introduced the idea to me, I was immediately drawn in by its diverse charm. It works on so many levels, and creates an opportunity for various distilleries and indies that struggle to find a market for their stock. Their official releases are often viewed as a separate entity, with some being arguably overpriced and languishing in a whisky market that is currently facing a downturn in demand and heightened price sensitivity. The era of reckless spending has passed, leaving us with bottles, series, and concepts that lack a clear destination. 

Does the world really need yet another release from Ardnamurchan, Lochlea, or NcNean? Or perhaps an independent offering from Orkney or heavily peated selections from the pricey isle of Islay? Perhaps that answer is a resounding ‘yes’ to the blinkered fanboy contingent, but for many the answer is more likely ‘probably not’. What we truly crave is an element of excitement and curiosity, something to reignite the joy of whisky shopping. In these uncertain times, this initiative not only aids distilleries and retailers in selling their products but also encourages exploration and alleviates doubts; for example, I would have never considered purchasing from Nc'Nean or Ardnamurchan based on my previous experiences with their whiskies.

This isn't a slight on inferior releases, as we all have an off day and the market has been very welcoming of mediocrity. Among their offerings, there are some genuinely commendable whiskies, some perhaps even hidden away in their warehouses yet to surface. Navigating through all the distractions to find that perfect pour that satisfies your palate can be quite a costly endeavour. And cost today is the issue within many homes who are more price sensitive than ever before.

My journey with vinyl has revealed the ridiculousness that ensues when we forget the essence of what truly matters - the music, or in this case, the whisky itself. It's all too easy to get sidetracked by the myriad facets of whisky, resulting in collections of bottles that sit untouched instead of being experienced. We find ourselves discussing retirements or special events that never materialise, all while we make room for yet another shelf or cabinet to house a growing testament to our failure to embrace the present, life and its genuine purpose. 

I must confess, as some brand ambassadors might if you catch them off guard, that certain recent releases and series hitting the market seem to disregard the drinker's experience. In reality, the whisky often serves as mere decoration, best left sealed to avoid the dismay that would ensue upon realising the exorbitant price paid for a soapy Balvenie, a dull Macallan, or a tasteless over packaged Highland Park – just a few examples from a vast array of contenders, including Bowmore, which deserves a special mention.

With distilleries scaling back their releases, halting plans and many smaller independent brands fading away, the market has quickly reached a standstill. This stagnation has rendered it not only predictable, but also rather tedious. The previous trend of purchasing nearly any cask and bottling it with a catchy label/name - armed with glowing reviews from influencers - is no longer sufficient. While it's still possible to do so, those bottles will likely join the ranks of others collecting dust on shelves, waiting for a moment that never arrives. 

This situation has left some distilleries and independents in a precarious position. The current market lacks the enthusiasm needed for your new series, or release of that cask you took a gamble on, or bought on the crest of a high. It's a fascinating dilemma: releasing a bottle incurs costs, yet the clock is ticking on your maturing whisky. It could improve if you choose to wait by good fortunate but restrict your cash flow, there's also the risk it may decline and lose its initial charm. What would you do if you found yourself in this predicament?

Step forward the intriguing Mystery Malt concept from the Thompson Brothers and their dedicated team, whom I have known for some time now. This series represents a natural evolution from the Dornoch team's earlier achievements with their single malts and independent releases, designed to reward those eager to explore the contents. 

As a society, we seem to be captivated by value and condition, often elevating mediocre and soulless products to good or very good status. We leave everything from records to trading cards unopened, while competitions entice us with the chance to win a variety of items. This trend is particularly troubling on social media platforms, where ads invite us to join a whisky community by purchasing a ticket, to receive a whisky that has been reduced to an investment. Meanwhile, the presenter attempts to sell us on the odds and the community we would be joining - perhaps filled with former cask owners facing tough times due to the outrageous actions of some recent investment firms.

It's choppy waters that the Mystery Malt range sets sail upon, with the first series consisting of sixteen possible whiskies, totalling an outturn of 1329 bottles. However, it’s pretty much sold out within days, underlining the freshness that the concept brings and one that rewards all sides. 

For £65, you are assured of a whisky that the team felt confident enough to bottle. The identity of the whisky is only unveiled once you break the seal and peel away the outer foil. It could range from a new distillery release aged between 4 to 7 years, to offerings from more established names in the 20+ age range. 

Odds, and we’re a society that is underpinned by odds and the chances of a score, means you’re more likely to open a Lochlea, Nc’Nean or Aultmore which compile almost half of the potential bottles. Thereafter a sliding scale takes hold, right down to the well-aged Ardmore’s which you’ll have a 1.1% chance of pulling. I like the inclusion of the percentages which underpins the whole concept, and while it might have echoes of Panni or Topps, the odds are more in your favour than any card trick.  

What’s truly exciting is the multitude of ways you can immerse yourself in this experience. You can take a leap of faith like many others and test your fortune, whether by exploring after breaking the seal or by unveiling it without disclosing the hidden secrets. Engage your senses, indulge in the enticing aromas and flavours, and ponder its true nature until the moment of truth unfolds. 

Additionally, a member on the Dornoch Distillery Facebook forum pointed out an intriguing twist: the double-layer seal allows some to uncover the contents yet hesitate. This could be due to a dislike for what they find (see my comments about Nc’Nean or Ardnamurchan) or the allure of other options, as the bottle remains sealed and the whisky's origins are disclosed, potentially leading to a secondary market for this series.

We debate the concept of preconceptions and their effects, as well as the possibility of overcoming them. In this series, they linger to some extent, especially during the pause before we break the secondary seal. The idea of preconceptions intrigues me, particularly since those who claim to be impartial often retain their biases unknowingly, a trend evident today with the scarcity of negative reviews or unfavourable whisky commentary in the media. I’d encourage the brothers to take another bold step forward with an extreme edition of the Mystery Malt; the Poser Malt. Imagine a version that eliminates the content seal, featuring only a label that asks 'are you sure?' and provides no information except for the alcohol content. Those daring enough to try this edition would have to look online to discover what they had just tasted – a remarkable challenge that promises excitement and completely removes any preconceptions.

I purchased two bottles: one to open immediately and the other for a holiday later this year. I let fate decide which one to open by conducting a poll on Instagram - which turned out to be quite close in the end - reflecting the spirit of the original idea and that of chance. At £65, you're guaranteed a whisky, so no matter the outcome, it's bound to be a success. 

For me, the experience is all about enjoyment and trust. I'm not in it for the odds or to 'win' or profit; I'm relishing the intrigue and the moment, confident in the quality control and the vision behind the product. Not every release hits the mark, as evidenced by the Nc’Noch blended malt, which simply didn't resonate with me, but I know did with others. Whisky encompasses both the disappointments and the delightful moments. I gain more insight from the whiskies that don't resonate with me or fall short of my expectations than from any highly praised release.

This series encourages us to return to the fundamentals, eliminating the need for excessive analysis and debate over the details. While the label may not leave you breathless, you've journeyed this far, so experience the whisky for what it truly represents - the dedication and craftsmanship of those who brought this spirit to life, along with the influence of nature itself. Despite all our scientific knowledge and guidelines, there remains an element of chance - a certain unpredictability - in the art of distilling and whisky creation. No matter how much we strive to master that aspect, it will never be entirely under our control, and thankfully so.

No more talking, it's time to unveil my thoughts. 

By the way, I need to enter the lottery this week because I was particularly excited about the Dornoch 5yo release. If you saw the reveal video on Instagram, you know how thrilled I was to find out it was the one I opened.

Simon kindly provided me with details about this release when I asked shortly afterwards. This marks only the second 70cl bottling from Dornoch, with the first being a private cask that made its way to the States and is now lost to time. Thus, this is the inaugural standard bottle size of Dornoch available in the UK, albeit in a mysterious fashion.

Jack, a member of the Dornoch team, has been honing his blending skills and crafted this unique Dornoch for the Mystery Malt series. By the way, Jack also has an intriguing single cask of Dornoch maturing that I really admire for its uniqueness and background story. However, this particular Dornoch blend consists of a 6.5yo whisky from an old first-fill Solera Oloroso Montilla butt, mixed with whisky from a 5yo ex-Port Charlotte barrel and another 5yo ex-Laphroaig Quarter Cask. 

Notably, this is the only release in the series that is not a single cask bottling. For those who appreciate the specifics, the blend comprises 61% ex-PC, 23% ex-Laphroaig Quarter Cask, and 16% first-fill Oloroso. It’s a fascinating interplay of wood and flavour characteristics on paper, so now for the part that really matters…

On the nose: A blend of light brown sugar, apple skin, and Seville marmalade creates an unexpected harmony with hints of coconut, gentle earthy peat, dried pineapple, and a touch of aged soot. Imagine an old 10p mixture bag (which would cost around £1 today) filled with jelly sweets and various candies, alongside the essence of strawberries, chalk, candied lemon peel and remnants of old embers.

In the mouth: Well sculpted, this blend now features an enhanced peat character, harmonising beautifully with notes of figs, vanilla, and a hint of tobacco smoke, complemented by savoury bacon bits. A vibrant green undertone weaves through, showcasing flavours of green mango, pineapple, and crisp apples, followed by green peppercorns and saline. It strikes a memorable harmony, resonating with history while layering its elements, before gracefully fading away with the gentlest caress.

My thoughts

To begin with, this whisky is impressively crafted; while one might say it's engineered, that term veers us into the sterile domain of modern whisky production. This creation is not the result of scientific precision, but rather the genuine artistry and passion involved in blending a whisky that transcends the sum of its components. The strength also works and shows the Dornoch distillate can be reduced while retaining character.

The aromas remind me of a classic old blend, with a hint of peat that invites the nuances of cask maturation and the fruity notes of the Dornoch distillate. On the palate, it showcases a delightful Highland elegance, less rugged and more refined than some of the single cask Dornoch expressions I've experienced before and good wood. The peat takes centre stage here, but with a little patience and a splash of water, it reveals a broader spectrum of flavours. 

In the end, this whisky embodies a style and concept that is increasingly rare today. It would fit seamlessly among my old bottles of Black & White, Logan, Mackinlay’s, and White Horse, all from before the 1970s, feeling right at home in that company.

I'm happy that I decided to break my self-imposed bottle ban to take a chance on this Mystery Malt series. My whisky cabinet is finally showing some gaps for the first time in years - there was a time when you couldn't even see the floor of the room! Now, I have space for unique finds like this one or a bottle of Glen Mhor. The key takeaway is to appreciate your whisky and cherish those moments of reflection, whether alone or with friends. Our time here is fleeting, but good whisky lasts and uplifts the soul.

I will look for another bottle to enjoy with friends. At least I can take comfort in knowing it's a standard 70cl bottling, which means I can prolong the experience a little longer, feeling like a winner for once. I hope many others share this sentiment about their roll of the dice in this thrilling series.

Score: 8/10

WR