Watt Whisky October Outturn
For both of you that remain, join me as I delve into the latest release from the astute whisky cask adventurers at Watt HQ, nestled in the stunning surroundings of Campbeltown.
I consider myself incredibly lucky to have received samples from Watt Whisky since their very beginning, having supported them as an early crowd funder. While this good fortune isn’t directly connected, it has been a joy to witness their evolution as a brand, especially with their 100th cask - the Campbeltown edition - featured in this release. However, I must mention that the North British release is absent from my sample collection due to its limited availability, with fewer than 60 bottles drawn from the cask. I thrive on a good enigma, so perhaps I’ll seek it out and provide you with a future summary.
If you haven't explored the offerings from Watt Whisky yet, now is the perfect time to dive in. They've expanded their reach into new international markets and partnered with several new retailers, many of which offer shipping. So, if you're looking to treat yourself to a bottle of whisky this month, there's no reason to hold back if your budget allows. The best way to begin your adventure with them is by visiting their website.
My opinions are entirely my own, unbound by the constraints of the 100-point scale or the relentless pursuit of scores above 90. For me, it’s all about the whisky itself, which aligns perfectly with the Watt philosophy, making them one of the most dependable and reasonably priced bottlers in a bustling market.
These reviews have been gathered from my Instagram channel and refined for this online article. With no limitations in this space, anticipate a Director’s Cut feel and a deeper exploration of my thoughts.
As is customary, we’ll explore these releases in alphabetical order. Are you ready?
A special bottling marks the 100th release from the talented team at Watt Whisky, and they’ve raised the bar by incorporating a hint of 28yo Springbank into this blended malt. The rest of the blend remains shrouded in secrecy, possibly including spirits from Glen Scotia and other nearby distillates. I can just picture Kate having to wrestle the nearly empty Springbank bottle from Mark’s hands to include it in this release, or perhaps it was the other way around?
Congratulations are definitely in order and as an early Crowdfunder who received the exclusive Highland Park to commemorate the milestone, I’ve been thrilled to witness the Watt’s growth and success. Here’s to the next century of releases, and my thanks for the samples.
Watt Whisky Campbeltown Blended Malt
Bottle info
Age: 7 years
Year: 2017
Cask Type: barrel
ABV: 57.1%
Outturn: 246 bottles
Expect to pay £68
On the nose: creamy vanilla toffee, green apples and malty. Wine gums, a hint of fresh ash and lime jelly. Milk chocolate, candy floss and a subtle earthiness that must be the soft peat. Sunflower oil and lead glass – almost old bottle effect.
In the mouth: soft and refined despite the bulk of its young age, an old warehouse, more green apples and a tartness. Withered orange, toffee and a touch of farmyard. Oily, nutty and wet copper sheets.
My thoughts
A fitting tribute to Watt Whisky as it celebrates a milestone, showcasing the essence of Campbeltown. While some regional blends may burst with youthful vigour, this particular offering expresses a serene sophistication, a testament to the art of blending. It beautifully embodies the company’s philosophy that whisky is meant to be poured and shared, making it a worthwhile choice.
Score: 7/10
Watt Whisky Dalrymple
Watt Whisky delivers the intriguing Dalrymple, a name that cleverly conceals the true origins of the whisky. Unlike complex Zodiac codes, these names have become more approachable over time and the hard work of fellow enthusiasts. While Dalrymple translates to Ailsa Bay = a brand that has seen little attention from its owners recently.
The independent releases under the Dalrymple label of convenience have proven to be consistently good and occasionally exceptional, raising the question of why William Grant & Sons hasn’t invested more effort into their own home grown brand? Kininvie was a long time coming, and even then, it was met with criticism for being overpriced and poorly executed. Perhaps we should appreciate the existence of Dalrymple for whisky enthusiasts, as it allows us to explore the distillery's offerings without the constraints of smaller bottle sizes, exorbitant prices, and overzealous claims.
Let’s pour and dive into this experience.
Bottle info
Age: 11
Year: 2012
Cask Type: Hogshead
ABV: 57.1%
Outturn: 294 bottles
Except to pay £70
On the nose: honey, oat crumbles and strawberries. Rhubarb, marzipan and greenery – I think I’m trying to say herbaceous with that. There’s also a touch of grapefruit that cuts through all this density.
In the mouth: lovely oozing texture and quite jammy for want of a better expression. Sticky and sweet, you’d think there was a wine cask somewhere. Red apples and peppers, savoury in places and quite punchy in a good way. Playdough and more honey.
My thoughts
An exceptionally delightful distillate is on display here, raising the intriguing question: if William Grant & Sons are crafting this and parting with casks, why aren’t they harnessing this potential more fully? While blending needs and adjustments to the peated distillate at the facility are certainly factors, one could argue that the finest spirit in their collection may not be Glenfiddich or Balvenie, but rather something much further south. Perhaps this deliberate oversight is why they haven’t fully capitalised on it.
Score: 7/10
Watt Whisky Glen Elgin
This release stands out as the most thrilling one on paper, aside from the milestone of the 100th release, because Watt Whisky has consistently demonstrated an impressive ability to select exceptional casks from various underrated Speyside distilleries.
Glen Elgin, at this age, can deliver a vibrant explosion of flavours and energy in its natural form. Everything looks promising on paper, and the price is refreshing, especially when compared to the steep costs of younger offerings from newer distilleries, which often rely on intensified flavours from STR casks. The upcoming Watt Whisky Nc’Nean review is sure to be intriguing as well.
With a rich history in blending, particularly highlighted by the esteemed White Horse range of yesteryear, Glen Elgin exudes a sense of depth and elegance, further enhanced by the traditional use of worm tubs. Thanks to economies of scale, when Glen Elgin casks do hit the market, they remain reasonably priced, allowing us to enjoy one of our beloved distilleries without the worry of draining our wallets.
Bottle info
Age: 11yo
Year: 2013
Cask Type: Hogshead
ABV: 55.3%
Outturn: 270 bottles
Except to pay £72
On the nose: corroded metal, white grapes and fruit loaf. Oranges, rubbed brass and a minerality. It is stark and candid in places, quite austere. Nougat, stewed black tea in an old pot (yeah, I know) and wild strawberries. Worth further exploration.
In the mouth: great texture which has presence and oiliness. Petrichor and an industrial fortification that’s hard to document. More molten iron and rust, roasted nuts and dried tarragon underlines that iron-aspect. Malty, more herbs and a fattiness.
My thoughts
This may not appeal to everyone, especially those who are new to whisky, but it offers a refreshing departure from the usual fruity Speyside landscapes, transporting us to a realm that feels both unique and inviting. It exudes a subtle yet confident strength, reminiscent of a BMW M3, while some of the newer distilleries seem overhyped, akin to a Ford Escort sporting a phony exhaust. This one truly delivers and oozes style without any bravado or fanfare.
Keeps up the Watt’s habit of picking great casks from overlooked Speyside distilleries.
Score: 8/10
Watt Whisky Nc’nean
Nc’nean holds a mix of memories for me, not all of them glowing. To their credit, the distillery team took a prior less-than-stellar review from me in their stride, inviting some members of the Malt team for a personalised online tasting experience. Honestly, there wasn’t much that thrilled me, asidef rom their heavier distillate, which seemed better suited for long-term aging. They even crafted as pecial ‘Jason blend’, in response to my feedback, a unique gesture that left me both humbled and a bit embarrassed, as it was the first time a distillery had done something like that for me, and the last time, thankfully.
That gathering with the upper Malt team felt like one of the last hurrahs; the leadership cracks were beginning to show, and the viral influence of Waterford was making it hard for the site to continue. I recall my wife being nearby while I listened quietly, enduring a colleague’s relentless Waterford comparisons, much to her chagrin as she remarked on how they overshadowed the tasting. I was grateful to Annable Thomas for making the trip from London to join us that evening, sadly it wasn’t successful in refreshing my opinion.
I can’t help but wonder if the Nc’nean team sensed that change was in the air, with Adam, myself, and the other one poised to go our separate ways. Despite the excitement and camaraderie we once shared, the fun days were over and I was already contemplating a departure. It might seem glamorous to receive complimentary trips and bottles, but that’s not something I’m comfortable with. I was ready to move on and concentrate on more enjoyable endeavours.
Since that time, whether it’s been an official pour at a bar or sampling an independent bottling, Nc’nean has yet to win me over. Boy, have I tried, and even the blend with Dornoch distillery I found to be disappointing. I find the whisky somewhat lacklustre; more style than substance and overly fake perfumed as a bad descriptor. I recognise I’m in the minority, as many whisky enthusiasts praise the distillery, while it must be said enjoying samples or visits. I jest when I say that making it into my whisky cabinet (which is solely for drinking) is a significant accolade, but it’s true that a bottle of Nc’nean hasn’t found its way there yet. Maybe this is the one, I sincerely hope so.
Bottle info
Age: 6yo
Year: 2018
Cask Type: STR
ABV: 57.1%
Outturn: 282 bottles
Except to pay £85
On the nose: fragrant with an early morning bakery – good aromas such as fruit loaf, cinnamon bun and sweet European delights. Reminds me a need to buy a loaf. Fitting into the pastry dynamic are home made marmalade, orange peel, marzipan and also some charcoal, hence the toasted aspect.
In the mouth: first thing written down was cola bottles so that’s an old-school sweetie in the UK(need to explain our cultural vibes) made up of flavoured hard jelly with some aniseed, star anise and cinnamon. Raisins, strawberry jam and a slight medicinal note. Also, a used eraser followed by toffee and almonds.
My thoughts
This whisky embodies a contemporary whisky style, rich in wood notes and aromatic qualities. It is getting nearer to my whisky cabinet, but still has some work to do.
Imagine a talented cover band paying homage to Oasis, capturing the essence but ultimately falling short of the original. There are moments of genuine enjoyment, yet beneath it all, you sense the façade. I believe this distillery has potential for the future. However, it’s disheartening to see so many distilleries willing to compromise their brand and integrity by releasing examples that are too young, crafted from distillates specifically designed for quick maturation, built on the STR foundation. Even the promise of fancy organic bottles isn’t a reason to return, sorry, but it isn’t.
I might be in the minority here (what a shocker), but the landscape of whisky has evolved. These more engineered spirits seem to lack the depth and character that define true quality. While they may meet technical standards and please investors, as a whisky lover, I view them as unstable ground. Wood can only carry you so far (apologies, Macallan), and these meticulously crafted distillates lack the endurance needed for longevity. Distillate designed to be bottled young, how is that going to turn out in 10-15 years time?
Moreover, as I recently noted in my review of Cadenhead’s Yorkshire release, young distilleries must become more astute when collaborating with independent bottlers. They are pricing their casks too high, which creates a situation where they could tap into new markets and attract drinkers who might otherwise overlook an official release from Nc’nean or similar youthful brands. I don’t mean to single out Nc’nean, as this trend is evident across the board.
The distillery has missed a significant opportunity due to the elevated cask price. In this instance, the bottle is not only pricier, but also younger compared to others in the same outturn. Glen Elgin, a well-respected name in the Scotch world, offers a whisky that is nearly double the age and more affordable, and it is more palatable. This approach isn't sustainable for the long term, and new distilleries will increasingly rely on independent bottlers. I have a feeling that distilleries like EdenMill, Kingsbarns, Holyrood, Inchdarnie, Loch Lea, and several others are struggling to sell their official releases. It’s crucial they take note, as we are entering a period where value is paramount. Since this particular bottling lacks that essential quality, I’m reducing my score by a point.
In my earlier days with Malt, this kind of critique sparked plenty of discussions, with some prominent whisky reviewers arguing that price is subjective. Maybe, but is an aspect that many totally ignore or sweep away, then go on to provide their own tasting notes that are even more subjective – you cannot have it both ways. Today, pricing is more critical than ever, and I sincerely hope distilleries recognise this, as there are excellent independent bottlers eager to forge mutually beneficial partnerships. Get the pricing right, and it’ll spark interest and drive curiosity towards your brand.
Then there are distilleries that turn away independent bottlers for any cask sales and in doing so, are overlooking a significant opportunity. Take established names like Benromach, which boasts a strong financial backing, or Daftmill, known for its exclusive partnership with an expensive London based bottler. This creates a defensive mindset, where pricing is controlled by a single entity, and access to their products is restricted by sales strategies that emphasise exclusivity, distribution limitations, or the requirement for retailers to stock additional products just to secure a coveted box of Waterford.
I’m being playful with that example, but you understand my point. Once a brand loses its shine in the eyes of the typical whisky enthusiast, how do you win them back? By rolling out fancier, more colourful bottles or limited editions that honour something unworthy of celebration, all while keeping the price tag steep? That strategy is doomed to fail, we’ve all been ‘burned’ by a distillery release that didn’t meet the hype. In a time when fake whisky names abound, there’s a certain joy to be found in using the dynamic.
Score: 5/10
Speyside (Mortlach)
One of the significant losses since the dawn of the new millennium has been the transformation of Mortlach from a remarkable whisky steeped in history into a brand that has become increasingly elusive. Aside from a few initiatives from Chivas, Mortlach exemplifies how not to cultivate and launch a whisky brand.
Remember the days when Diageo was tearing down buildings, pouring substantial investments into crafting this bespoke, premium whisky that justified its exorbitant price tags? They brought on Georgina Bell as their ambassador and hosted various international events, but it all felt misguided from the start, destined for failure - a fate that ultimately came to pass. In hindsight, it seems like a mere prelude to what we are about to witness with Port Ellen and Brora. These revived prestigious distilleries will cater to an elite few; the average whisky enthusiast will be fortunate to snag a tour or a sip the last dregs from a bottle thrown into the alley bins at a three Michelin-star restaurant.
Nick Morgan, the former head of whisky outreach at Diageo, who has stirred controversy with his opinions on whisky, marketing and the absence of critique, remarked at the time of the Mortlach launch that ‘the bottles are strikingly different and I would call them decanters, not bottles. This range is all about redefining luxury in single malt whisky. The design and the size are integral to that vision.’
Ultimately, the framework and vision for ‘whisky luxury’ was not designed to endure, and Diageo's attention has shifted elsewhere. Regrettably, this has left the Mortlach brand in a state of uncertainty, though we can still find the occasional cask making its way to independent bottlers, reminding us - without the glitz of decanters - of what truly makes this distillery a wonderful thing.
Bottle info
Age: 15yo
Year: 2009
Cask Type: Hogshead
ABV: 54.9%
Outturn: 318 bottles
Except to pay £80
On the nose: peppercorn sauce, caramel and new steel. Nutty, almond brittle and honey ham. Memories of sailing canvas, chrysanthemums and Highland honey. Dried tarragon, rye-like in places, oily and beer-ish in parts.
In the mouth: tangy and bitter lemon. Rusty, apricot and vanilla. Oily and dry in places along with porridge and a touch of smoke. Oranges, chocolate, chestnuts and some wood spice and a peppercorn kick.
My thoughts
The beast has returned. This reinforces the argument I presented in the Nc’nean review: why spend more for something inferior? Classic Mortlach (can I mention the name? Oh well, rules are meant to be smashed) is a delightful experience. It serves as a reminder of the true potential of whisky, showcasing its depth without an excessive dependence on wood. Here, a whirlwind of flavours and aromas awaits. This is perfect for those weary of contemporary whiskies, appealing to those who value a bit of patience and investment (I mean in terms of savouring, not financial gain) to truly appreciate this slumbering giant of Speyside. Not a fancy bottle in sight either!
Score: 8/10
Last thoughts
Watt Whisky has truly outdone itself with this latest outturn, surpassing their previous offerings. The philosophy of ‘less is more’ shines through here; if you choose any of the selections mentioned, I doubt you'll be let down, even if the Nc’nean isn’t my personal favourite - it may very well appeal to others.
It’s invigorating to see a selection that stands on its own without leaning on finishes or cask manipulation. These whiskies have been allowed to mature gracefully, showcasing the beauty of the unadorned ex-bourbon cask and its harmonious relationship with the distillate. It evokes a sense of nostalgia, reminding us that sometimes, we don’t need the bells and whistles that many independent bottlers implement; we can simply let the whisky shine.
I rarely award scores of 8 or higher, yet here I find myself doing so twice, with the Campbeltown not far behind. This isn’t a sign of leniency or overindulgence on my part; rather, it reflects the steadfast principles upheld by the Watt team, who have an exceptional knack for selecting casks at just the right time. This skill is becoming increasingly rare in a world where bottling often occurs for misguided reasons. If you haven’t explored their offerings yet, I highly recommend you do.
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