Caol Ila 8 year old Unpeated, 12 year old and 25 year old

Caol Ila was, if not the first, at least one of the first drams that began to unlock the wonderful world of peatiness to me. Much less intense than my first ever peated experience which was the smoke bomb that is Laphroaig 10 year old. There was a sweetness, gentle medicinal peatiness and mild salinity to the Caol Ila 12 year old that just drew me in. The fact that even in the summer in Ireland you could be mistaken that it's actually winter meant that this wasn’t just an autumn/winter dram but a dram for all seasons.

What amazes me though is that after all this time this is my first Caol Ila review. Amazing. Anyway even though you guys have had to wait, at least you get value as I’m giving you my thoughts on three Caol Ila drams.

Like a lot of Islay distilleries Caol Ila has a checkered past. Founded in 1846 it only took 8 years for it to change hands to Norman Buchanan in 1854. Mr Buchanan already owned Jura! I don’t know about you but that sends shivers down my spine. By 1863 it was under the ownership of Bulloch Lade & Co of Glasgow and by 1871 over 670,000 litres of raw spirit were being produced.

In 1920 Bulloch Lade & Co went into voluntary liquidation but by 1930 Caol Ila was in the ownership of  Scottish Malt Distillers Ltd which would eventually become part of what we know as Diageo today. The Second World War brought an end to production for a few years due to barley restrictions but from 1945 production recommenced until 9172 when the entire distillery was flattened to make way for a new, larger facility. Designed by George Leslie Darge, the distillery was rebuilt with six instead stills allowing for a major increase in production as it previously only had two stills. Production resumed in 1974 at the new facility.

During the 1980’s when Scotch was in turmoil the distillery began making unpeated ‘Highland’ style single malt to be used as blending fodder and this style is still produced to this day. However, even the peated spirit is predominantly used for blending in brands such as Johnnie Walker. In fact it’s estimated around 95% of Caol Ila’s not insignificant output (around 6.5 million lpa) is used for blending purposes. 

The first dram we have on offer is the now discontinued 8 year old unpeated. I came across this when on holiday in Nerja, Spain. Holidays always offered a bit of sport for me….whisk(e)y hunting. Spain was a good hunting ground. I was constantly amazed at the what would turn up….old style Bowmore Surf (which was a lovely dram), Yamazaki 12, Springbank CV……Caol Ila 8 year old unpeated…..for €39.99. What the actual? Unpeated, cask strength, discontinued for €40. I bought 3 bottles. On a subsequent visit they were still there and still priced at €40, I bought another 2. Sadly I only have one left which may call for another visit to Nerja for a top up. Aside from the whisky goodies Nerja is also a beautiful place to visit so do yourself a favour and give it a go. You may also get lucky whisky hunting.

So yes it’s taken me at least 3 bottles of the Caol Ila 8 year old unpeated to actually get round to reviewing it….maybe that’s a good sign.

Next up is the flagship Caol Ila 12, the everyday go to. For a long time if someone told me they didn’t like peated whisky I’d either direct them to buy a bottle of this or if they were in my company, pour them one as I was that confident that this would at least start to win them over to all things peaty goodness.

As time has progressed though I have found myself a little disconnected from this corner of Islay. Partly I think due to the presentation. 43% abv, laced with e150 and chill filtered (at least it’s not 40%….Ardbeg 17 anyone?). 

At this point in my whisky journey I’m more given to taking my whisky at higher strength, at least 46% and generally higher. Anything below that 46% level tends to have me give it no more than a cursory glance. However, I realise that I started with 40% drams and so I need to be cognisant that many who are starting their journey will also be playing with drams in this ballpark. Maybe I’ll start returning to a few more presented in this style to see what I can glean from the experience.

The 12 year old is running around the £50 price point these days but I bought mine on offer on the big Bezos site for £37. Stateside this is currently running anywhere between $72-$85 a bottle (so £54-£65).

Finally I’m looking at the big daddy of the core Caol Ila range, the 25 year old. Now I bought this bottle a few years ago for £125 but due to Diageo’s mental price increases over the past while it’s available in the UK for anywhere between £250-£295 a bottle. That’s a serious price increase. Even more insane was Diageo’s own website, www.malts.com where the 25 year old was recently priced at £450 a bottle. I wonder why there’s a downturn in scotch sales? US wise you’re looking at at least $500.

Anyway the 25 year old is mostly matured in ex-bourbon barrels with a smattering of sherry casks thrown in. Bottled again at 43% abv, coloured and chill filtered.

Let’s taste!

Caol Ila 8 year old Unpeated 59.8% abv

Nose: Quite subdued although there is an initial alcohol kick to the nose. Once past the alcohol there is strong vanilla, green apple, lemon wedges and kiwi fruit. There's also a fresh cut wood note plus a hint of smoke in the background. Water releases more fruit with clementines plus nutmeg, caramel and some more oak.

Palate: Lots of sweetness on arrival - spun sugar and toffee apples. Candied lemons followed by warm Danish pastry. A kick of alcohol mid palate leading to milk chocolate with ginger and clove notes. Underpinning all of this is a gentle but definite peat note. Water brings out more citrus sharpness, woody spice and makes the peat more apparent still.

Finish: Medium, it's initially sweet before moving to salted lemons and a wisp of smoke

Score: 7 out of 10

Caol Ila 12 year old 43% abv

Nose: Salted lemons, white grapes, smoked ham hock, brine, mild peppermint and fresh tobacco leaf. A beach bonfire, vanilla and toffee. 

Palate: The texture is a little thin. There’s some sweetness initially with vanilla fudge but this quickly moves to lemon peel, pepper, tar and bitter ash. Time brings a little pear and apple with underlying peat smoke.

Finish: Short with lemon juice, ash and tar the defining notes.

Score: 4 out of 10

Caol Ila 25 year old 43%

Nose: Fruity, salty and smoky. Ripe cantaloupe, poached pear, apricot and a hint of raisin. Candied orange peel and some marzipan. Sea spray & wet shells. Old oak, camphor and some garden mint. Then sweet smoke weaves it's way delicately through everything. Dark chocolate and floral honey.

Palate: A gentle, understated arrival - no brash notes here. The fruitiness of the nose is here - apricot, banana & melon. Dark chocolate covered raisins as well as smoky bacon and lemon juice. Brine, creamy malt, ginger and that garden mint again. All butter shortbread. Salt and smoke kick in at the end along with leather and gentle oak.

Finish: A decent length with salted caramel, ash, lemons and vanilla.

Score: 6 out of 10 (at £125), 4 out of 10 at current pricing.

Overall: The Diageo bashing continues unabated. I kind of hate having to give the 12 year old such a low score but that’s where I’m at these days. Much like the Talisker 10 both my palate has moved on and also has the quality of what Caol Ila is producing from an Official Bottling perspective (in my eyes at least).

The 12 is still probably a good entry way into peated whisky but it just doesn’t seem to be the high quality dram that I fell in love with. These days when I think of Caol Ila I immediately look towards indie bottlers and maybe that says it all.

The 25 is definitely a refined dram, no bombast here. One thing that stuck out immediately though was how thin it felt in the mouth. It just didn’t really feel luxurious. I can imagine many people just being struck by the age statement and mentally telling themselves it’s a belter but sadly it’s just a solid dram. At today’s really exorbitant pricing I’d honestly be disappointed. You could have bought at least 2 bottles of Killowen for that money and at least gotten a little excitement from the whisky experience. I can’t imagine I’ll revisit this expression any time soon.

Of the three the clear winner is the 8 year old unpeated. Unctuous, oily, sweet and with subtle maritime notes. This dram has definitely made be curious to explore some of the other expressions from the Unpeated range, if I can afford them that is.

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