Kilkerran Heavily Peated ‘Peat in Progress’ Batches 1, 2 & 3

Kilkerran is maybe finally starting to get the kudos it deserves in the eyes of the whisky world in general, probably helped during the covid era when Springbank was essentially off the menu for most Campbeltown enthusiasts. This meant that to get your fix of Campbeltown funk you had to look elsewhere and aside from Glen Scotia there always seemed to be quite a bit of Kilkerran available to scratch that itch.

I was amazed that Kilkerran was so often overlooked as it is made by the same people that work in Springbank and to the same exacting standards.

Just before Covid hit Kilkerran had announced that they would be launching a heavily peated variety and they would be following the 'Work in Progress' formula used in the lead up to the 12 year old core release of Kilkerran. These new heavily peated expressions would be known as 'Peat in Progress'. What never actually transpired though was a core range age statement bottling of the heavily peated expressions. Instead they are now labelled as 'Small Batch' and I think we are on batch 12 these days.

I have been fortunate to get all the batches to date so let's go back to the start and look at batches 1 through 3.

All of the these were bought at Fairley's Wines in Coleraine.

Let's taste!

Kilkerran HP Peat in Progress Batch 1 59.3% (£40)

Released Feb 2019. 55% bourbon/45% sherry - 84ppm - 3 years old – 9,000 btls

Nose: Straight away I get butterscotch – think Werther’s Original sweets, vanilla infused rice pudding with stewed apples. Then we get campfire embers and sweet peat. Oak cakes, cured meat and lemon peel. Brine. Water brings out more yeasty and lactic notes along with more sweetness.

Palate: An awesome oily texture. Pretty punchy as expected – sweet peat, honey, stewed pear and apples. Lemon and malted milk. Vanilla pudding. Engine oil, soot, cinnamon, a hint of milk chocolate, white pepper and copper. Water means it loses a little body but it does feel earthier, dirtier as well as a little spicier.

Finish: Shortish with lingering pepper heat, ginger, oak and burnt caramel.

Score: 6 out of 10

Overall: Tasty, well constructed and it definitely didn’t come across as young as it actually is. Water did highlight the youth more and adversely affected the body of the dram. As expected it’s also not the most complex dram in the world but it did offer incredible value for money when it was released and as we’ll see I feel it pretty much continues to do so.

Kilkerran HP Peat in Progress Batch 2 60.9% (£42)

Sep 2019: 55% bourbon/45% sherry – 84 ppm – vatting of two refill hogsheads

Nose: Butterscotch is present again but the peat seems a little more direct and prominent as well as being oakier. Sea spray, vanilla and apple tart. Motor oil, leather and warm bread. A note of nougat too. Water brings out peppermint tea and dunnage.

Palate: Quite prickly on arrival but still with good texture. The second sip brings golden syrup mixed with vanilla, dry hay and then potent maritime peat smoke. Sea salt & lemon slices. A hint of dark chocolate, anise and a metallic note too. Water makes it more peppery and saltier too.

Finish: Short in length with olive brine, warming peat and Fry’s Peppermint cream candy.

Score: 5 out of 10

Overall: Not quite as composed as Batch 1 but still enjoyable, the alcohol just doesn’t seem as well integrated and it feels a little more oak driven too which maybe explains the extra spice on offer. For the entry fee it still offers good value for money, I’ve definitely had worse experiences.

 Kilkerran HP Peat in Progress Batch 3 59.7% (£42)

Aug 2020: 80% bourbon/20% sherry – 84 ppm – vatting of two refill hogsheads

Nose: Salted caramel, lemon yoghurt, vanilla cheesecake, apples and tinned peaches. Malt. The peat is a little brasher but still sweet. Wet soil and diesel. Lemon zest. Again a metallic quality and just a hint of cured ham. Water makes the caramel seem more intense alongside some nutty sherry notes.

Palate: On first sip its definitely alcohol forward. Sip 2 brings a lot of malt, salt, ashy peat smoke and then bourbon caramel sweetness. Lemon zest, black pepper and fresh red chilli pepper slices. Soft oak and cocoa. Water highlights the peat and wood tannins more along with some dark fruits but the finish wanes a little.

Finish: Short to medium with oak, salted lemons and caramel sauce.

Score: 6 out of 10

Overall: This is pretty well integrated and again doesn’t come across as super youthful. It’s a really solid and enjoyable experience although the nose is definitely the highlight here. Still not super complicated and still not a contender to dethrone the standard Longrow expression from the sister Springbank distillery. Little to argue with considering the price.

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