Laphroaig Cairdeas Amontillado, 200th Anniversary & Madeira Single Malt Review
Laphroaig is of course one of the most famous Islay whisky brands and one that positively revels in its ’peat monster’ categorisation. However, its core range is something that many find a little underwhelming. Indeed the standard 10 year release is something I haven’t bought in a few years now. Yes it offers peat and plenty of it but it doesn’t offer much in the way of complexity or nuance.
For me it has been a much safer bet to explore the cask strength Laphroaig releases, especially if they are bottled by an indie bottler. My first introduction to cask strength Laphroaig was through the Cairdeas annual releases available through their ‘Friends of Laphroaig’ portal.
Since everyone is going all ‘2016’ right now I thought I may as well do some time travelling of my own and finally put out my notes of some of the Cairdeas range that I managed to own and enjoy of the years. So at least 10 years too late here are my notes 0n the releases from 2014 through to 2106.
These bottles are obviously not available easily anymore but if any of these do pique your interest their is a good chance that you’ll find them at auction.
Laphroaig Cairdeas 2014 Amontillado 51.4% abv £65
Double matured – 8 years in bourbon casks, 1 year in Amontillado hogsheads
Nose: A very intense mix of sweet peat & smoking oak shavings. A big dollop of sea spray as well as creosote. Underneath this is ripe banana, caramel, yellow plum, vanilla custard and frangipane. A hint of smoked kippers too towards the end.
Water brings out curry leaves, turmeric and some menthol.
Palate: A nice oily texture – initially we get a huge whack of peat followed by iodine, salted graham crackers and soot. Sour citrus along with candied almonds, raisins, salted caramel before turning to a dry nuttiness and more salinity. Some rocket/arugala peppery heat too.
Water brings out bourbon sweetness as well as some bbq sauce and leather.
Finish: Medium with assorted salted nuts, espresso and peaty ash.
Score: 7 out of 10
Overall: A young but really enjoyable Laphroaig. The Amontillado finish interplays well with the peaty, maritime aspect of the base spirit but does make it quite dry on the finish.
Laphroaig Cairdeas 2015 ‘200th Anniversary’ 51.5% abv. £65
Floor malted, cold smoked, small pot stills and matured fully in Warehouse 1 in ex-bourbon casks. No age statement but apparently 11-12 years old.
Nose: Very fresh and fruity with very little smoke evident on the nose here. Brine, some medicinal peat followed by vanilla cream, crisp green apples, pear, pineapple and papaya. Toffee sauce, licorice, menthol and cask char. Ground clove too and white pepper.
Water brings out burnt caramel, melon and camphor.
Palate: The peat is a little more expressive on the palate but still quite soft and restrained. Lapsang tea, vanilla custard, haribo sourz, zingy lime juice and sea salt. Some chilli flake heat plus white pepper again. Flinty pebbles and peanuts. An underlying fruitiness of pear and pineapple.
Water tames the spices and brings out charcoal dust, coffee grounds and oak.
Finish: Medium to long with medicinal peat, citrus, salt and some chilli heat.
Score: 7 out of 10
Overall: The nose is an absolute delight that the palate couldn’t quite live up too. Having never had pre-1980’s Laphroaig this does feel like a throwback in the sense of the tropical fruitiness and the tamer peatiness.
Laphroaig Cairdeas 2016 Madeira 51.6% abv. £70
8 – 10 years in bourbon casks finished for an undisclosed time in Madeira hogsheads.
Nose: Newspaper tossed on a peat fire, smoked bacon lardons, sweet & smoked paprika. Shiitake mushrooms, soy sauce, iodine and salt. Then red berries – strawberries in balsamic, blackberries and red grapes. Orange zest. Grilled pork and pineapple plus tangy bbq sauce. Hints of licorice and dark chilli chocolate.
Water makes it become buttery – smoked seaweed butter, molasses and flint.
Palate: Typical intense peat, creosote and saline notes at first followed by a wave of ripe strawberries, cranberry and sharp rose wine (Grenache). Smoke paprika with bbq rub and smoked, glazed meats. Licorice, cocoa powder, ginger and chilli flakes. Walnuts too.
Water brings out orange oil, smoked oysters, herbal peppermint tea.
Finish: Medium to long in length with loads of jammy fruit, bbq meat and coastal saltiness. Very moreish.
Score: 8 out of 10
Overall: A really enjoyable Laphroaig that is a great combination of sweet fruits, salt, smoke and umami notes. It took a while to open up in the bottle but once it did it was a banger.
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